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A macro shot is one where a very small subject (quite often, a bug) fills the whole image. If you want to experiment with macro, it is probably a good idea to start with a cheap set of macro tubes, such as these: You put those between the camera and any lens you already own (so that the lens sits farther away from the sensor) and you can focus much, much closer, so you can fill the image with small objects (you lose infinity focus while the tubes are mounted, though). Downsides to this cheap method: * You lose all auto features: AF won't work, IS won't work, and if there's no way to control iris aperture in the lens itself it will be stuck at the aperture it had when it was taken away from the camera last time (usually, wide open; you can press DoF preview before to you take it out and it will get stuck at any other aperture you want). It is therefore a perfect method for manual lenses (like the spectacular primes made by Samyang), but often it has issues (among other things, because when focusing so close depth of field becomer very, very narrow, so it is often desirable to have a lot of light and close aperture down). * Image quality is very good, but not as good as with a dedicated macro lens (which will usually have floating elements to preserve image quality even when focusing very close) (I think image quality is better with macro tubes than with most other "cheap" alternatives, such as reverse-mounting the lens or adding a macro element in front). But it's extremely cheap, and it works. And it will also allow you to experiment find out what you need and what you don't, which focal lengths you like most for macro work, etc, before you spend big bucks on a real macro lens (if you think you're going to use it a lot and you want even better image quality). |
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